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The Making Of Retinol Products: The Thought Process.


 

hi.

this month is all about retinol and I've been doing quite a number of formulation using retinol.

I plan to release a retinoid based product this month and so I was just testing out few different formulation to see what works.

But no matter what; I have to say my skin has never felt better ever since I started using retinol.

The truth is I'm aging and unfortunately I can't reverse it. The only thing I can do is delay it and even though I know the benefits of retinol or Retinoic acid or any vitamin A derivatives; I've never really used it in my skincare routine.

I don't know why not; its probably because I'm in 'denial' that I'm aging and so I refuse to start it because is have more years to go.

Thats how I thought in my late 20's and even now that I'm approaching my 40's, I'm still in denial :-D

So anyways; this project of figuring out hyperpigmentation skincare product has made me come back to retinol and rethinking hard about adding it into my skincare routine. 

Retinol is vital in anything that is for hyperpigmentation. 

The real mechanism of action is unknown but I suppose it works by regenerating skin. 

When using retinol, it works by creating more new skin and shedding the older ones (its not an exfoliating ingredient but it does somehow works that way).

so anyways when it sheds the old skin, new skin forms and with it it just brings the pigmentation higher to the surface of your skin. 

Hence when you start retinol you will notice your pigmentation more coz its coming closer and closer to the surface of your skin where finally it will get 'shed' off; resulting in 'flawless' more uniform skin tone.

Of course it doesn't happen immediately. one will need probably about 2-3 cycle of skin regeneration before you can notice results where its approximately 12-15 weeks.

for me though; since I've done laser; and used tyrosinase inhibitors like tranexemic acid (Txa helps by stopping melanin production inside the skin so there is no more new pigments), and laser which also regenerates skin and brings pigments up; I could actually notice the difference when I used retinol much faster. It was like the pigments were already on the surface of the skin; all that was left was 4-6 weeks of retinol use to completely shed it off.

and that's what happened. almost flawless skin when I tried all the different formulation with retinol in it.

So anyways; now that I have to finalise my formulation;

I can't decide on which to choose.

Lotion? Where it will have more water less oil phase.

Face Oil? Where its 100% oil based

or Biphasic serum? where is half oil and half water based.

Now why did I choose these formulation and not a serum based etc?

reason is because retinol is oil/ fat soluble. so I do need oily ingredients to mix the powder in.

However though, one of the common side effect of the product is dryness and peeling.

The peeling happen because that's just how it works. need to regenerate the skin right. so how is the 'shedding' gonna happen? of course by peeling.

but in order for us to reduce the 'appearance' of peeling; the best would be to use a very moisturising product. just so that it peels in very small size as compared to sheets like (it peels like this when your skin is dry).

So when I use an oil based product; you won't notice the 'peeling = less drying skin/ skin feels nicer/ less redder too.

Im still figuring out this formulation. But when I do finally decide. ill let you guys know dear readers.

Till then;

Take care.


Love;

Nisha 

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