A Boutique GMP Factory That Makes Handmade Natural Products. Formulated By Pharmacist


Chemistry of Oil (Part 1)

Hi all,
Ok I'm more of a chemistry person and i like to know exact things on why something happens and all its benefits before actually incorporating them into my cosmetics. If you see in soap lab, you will see carrier oils price ranging fem rm 20 to Rm 350. why such huge difference? Is it because of origins? or is it because of its exotic names? Why is argan oil and jojoba oil so famous and everyone wants to use them in cosmetic making? Wy can't i use olive oil only? Well these were my questions before i started my journey in soap and cosmetic making. So today ill try my very best to explain why and whats the difference so that you can take all this into considerations before making and purchasing your oils. Its a very long topic therefore ill be separating them into few posts.

The oils ill be talking about is mostly for lotion making. For summarised version of what oils to use in Soap Making you can check out here
Take a look at the chemical structure on the left. Gorgeous alien looking right? Well this is a triglycerides. It has three fatty acids, connected to a backbone called the glycerol (Glycerine). In soap making when lye solution is mixed with triglycerides (any carrier oil or butter), the lye would replace the glycerine and connect to the fatty acids resulting in soap and glycerin as the byproduct. 

Anyways back to the molecule above, take a look at the double line. Thats what is called as double bond. When there is a double bond, it means that its unsaturated fat. In saturated fats (no double bond), it would mean that its hard to break whilst double bond or triple bonds it will be easy to break.

So what does this mean?
It means that when an oil contains single bond, since its hard to break it is stable for long time. In cosmetic making; this translates to having a longer shelf life. Sometimes very very long before it gets rancid. Oils with double bond are easier to get oxidised so its shelf life is shorter and triple bond is the fastest to get rancid compared to single and double bond. Example of oils that are saturated fats are palm oil, all theses butters (shea, coconut, mango), coconut oil, animal fats and jojoba oil.

So today we talked about rancidity. The next post ill be talking about the different type of fatty acids and how its affect the thickness of the lotion.

Take care..

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