Making Light Tranexemic Acid Moisturiser

 

So I just got this ingredient called Glyceryl Stearate & Peg 100 Stearate. Its an emulsifier that I wanted to work with for a long time but I never got the chance to play with it.

We had just received the ingredient from our supplier and out it comes into my kitchen into my 'play land' where I will just simply mix and match to do something.

There are different suppliers / brand name for this but our supplier basically states that its a 48%/52% balance of this two ingredient in one. 

and so whatever I share with you in terms of formulation will only work if you get this combo. Anything more or less you will need to test it out to get the most stable 'emulsion' in your lotion.

So I wanted to get this ingredient because it is said to be an ingredient that doesn't produce viscosity.

You know basically unlike anything else you would have worked with.

Like for me in terms of emulsifier; I love to use emulsifying wax/ polawax/ BTMS 50. These are very stable emulsifiers and so your product won't separate even with high oil content because well; its stable.

However though; I love to put a lot of oils in my product. My skin is towards the dry type and I need these oils to help my skin to moisturise more.

However; when using these emulsifiers; it tend to become too thick. Sometimes too thick that it will feel sticky or 'heavy' on the face.

I've tried many times to Make it more 'lighter' but I just couldn't because the emulsifiers are already having acetyl alcohol in it. Cetyl is a thickener and it will cause the whole thickening effect plus the draggy/ soapy feeling when applying.

So here comes this ingredient (glyceryl stearate and peg 100).

This ingredient doesn't have acetyl in it therefore its perfect to emulsify and not thicken your products. if you need to thicken it, you can thicken it on your own using either acetyl alcohol or stearic acid or any other thickeners.

If use by itself it will give this nice 'watery' moisturiser.

If you see the formulation below; it is quite runny even with 30% jojoba oil in it! that's a lot of oil! plus its added with hyaluronic acid serum base that's already thick and the final results was exactly the hyaluronic acid serum base's thickness.

Even when applying it; it was very smooth and easy to apply. not so draggy.

so anyway this is the first time I'm making it and I'm quite satisfied with the results.

I had added tranexemic acid in it for pigmentation. Tranexemic acid is another new ingredients I had received and I wanted to try both of these ingredients together. 

So far its so good!

Basic Formulation To Make light moisturiser:

1. Jojoba Oil 30%
2. Tranexemic Acid 3%
3. Glyceryl Stearate & Peg 100 5%
4. Liquid Liquorice extract 2%
5. Liquid Mulberry Extract 3%
6. 1,2-Propandiol 2%
7. Glycerin 2%
8. SoapLab's Hyaluronic Acid Serum Base up to 100%

You can commit the hyaluronic acid if you want. but I added it more extra moisturising effect. I love our hyaluronic acid so I just wanted to add it in. If you don't want the HA serum you can change it to distilled water but don forget to add preservative ya. Use your preservative amount according to what your supplier advices.

(If you are not sure how to change percentage to weight click here)

Heres How To Make It:

1) Prepare your ingredients

2) measure all ingredients separately

3) heat up your oil phase (jojoba oil & glyceryl stearate)

4) heat a little hyaluronic acid (don't heat all as it can be deactivated by heat) heat maybe 10% only

5) mix num (3) & (4) vigorously until emulsified (water and oil don't separate)

6) Mix the remaining hyaluronic acid, glycerin and propanediol.

7) Once all mixed, finally add the tranexemic acid, extracts.

8) Mix again and pour into packaging of choice.

Use this within 18 months or once opened 3 months.

Now this product contains active ingredient like tranexemic acid. Therefore it might cause rashes etc. always do a 24 hours patch test before using it like normal. Click here to find out how to do patch test. 

Hope You found this useful:-)

If you prefer a product that is readymade; here's our readymade product for it using the formulation above: