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How To Reformulate Sk2 Treatment Essence More Naturally- Part 2


Hi all. This is part 2 of how we can replace the SK2 Treatment essence with more natural ingredient. This is a new 'category' by SoapLab where we will examine famous brands and see how we can create a more 'natural' alternative without losing the 'benefits'.

As you know; many cosmetic company 'claims' a lot of things therefore I will also study studies and trials that the company have gone through (if there is) and see if the claims are right and if they are; we will look for an alternative to it in a more 'natural' form. 

So today’s listing is for Sk2 Essence.

I have written a part 1 here so do check it out first before reading this. 

Just to recap; 

Heres the ingredients listing of PITERA and its function

Ingredients Listing

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera)

Heres what SK2 claims pitera does
  1. whitening
  2. prevent spots
  3. less wrinkles
  4. smoother texture
  5. suppler skin

and here’s a study results of what it really does when using 97%  galactomyces ferment filtrate (which looking at he ingredients listing the essence probably has lesser than this content)

  1. Blackhead and pore removal -15.66% ,21.84%
  2. Sebum Reduction- 64.17%
  3. Keratin- 16.47%
  4. skin brightness- 2.49%
  5. Acne reduction- 9.59%


So from above; it looks like we need an ingredient that can remove blackhead and pore, reduce sebum, and reduce acne. It doesn't look like its very much of a skin brightener/ whitening as claimed. There was no study that we could find that agrees that it reduces wrinkles but just for the fun of it; lets look for an ingredient that could cover that too:-) 

After a long serach; for all these results above; the best alternative to this ingredients will be cosmeceuticals like beta arbutin (natural AHA for blackhead removal), niacinamide (for anti acne and mild brightening) or hyaluronic acid (collagen booster as anti wrinkle), and for something that’s found in extracts; we can use lavender extract, sea weed extract or even neem extract will help.

Butylene Glycol

In the essence; butylene glycol is used as emollient (moisturiser). it also may be used in anti microbial activity against years and moulds (since galactomyces ferment filtrate is yeast; it may be for the product to have longer shelf life. for this reason; it may be used in 8-10% concentration)

For this; since we are don’t really require it for ‘preservation; since we are not using galactomyces ferment filtrate; we can replace it with another humectant like glycerin or D-Panthenol or sorbitol. If you dont want it sticky we can use sodium lactate as well. 

Pentylene glycol

Its the same as butylene glycol and may  be added to reduce water activity (lesser unbound water) to increase shelf life. similarly; since its exactly like butylene glycol; we will replace it with humectants

Other Ingredients

Sodium benzoate, methylparaben, sorbic acid

Used as preservative in this essence. Since Galactomyces ferment filtrate has a very short shelf life and its bound to have growth of many many microbials and molds; a broad spectrum and many different types of preservatives are used in this. Paraben based preservative is also included in these which we would like to omit.

Since we are not using galactomyces ferment filtrate; we can replace it with a broad spectrum preservative like germal plus. And no! its not a natural preservative; unfortunately there is non currently therefore we are going for one that is broad spectrum (will kill most microbes) and non paraben preservative. You can click here to find out more about preservative and why you need to add it in.

Formulation (Recipe) Alternative


For the recipe; If i wanted to make these; ill make it as below:
Hyaluronic acid 1%
Beta Arbutin 0.5%
D-Panthenol/ sodium lactate 2%
Liquid Germal Plus 0.5%
Distilled Water qs

or easier:

SoapLab's Hyaluronic Acid Serum Base 99.5%
Beta Arbutin 0.5% 

p/s: change d panthenol to sodium lactate if you dont want it sticky. If you want this product to have more 'whitening' as compared to anti aging; change Hyaluronic acid to niacinamide

Let me know your thought;
Thank you for reading;

Nisha
Prem said...

I would just add hyaluronic acid with niacin .
My own version of sk2 is just serum + jojoba oil + niacin +essential oil . of course the percentage will depend on your skin .

Soap Lab Malaysia said...

true but the problem with ur recipe is the water phase and oil phase wont mix. usually will need an emulsifier. You can either add polysorbate/ hydrogenated castor oil. OF if for your own use u can also mix it vigrously before dropping the 'serum' into ur palm. that way will be properly mix:-)

Maylim said...

I don't have many of the ingredients . What if you make for us..

Mini said...

I make serum with hyaluronic acid and oils . It mixes or infact holds really well. It won't separate at all.

Unknown said...

Dear nisha can you also review DR Murad product. It's being great for black sufferer. Last time I use blackhead duo remover. One like clay paste. Then one is liquid to close pore. I use about 2 -3 times . The blackhead does not come again at least after a year. I still have balance because so effective.

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